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Top 10 Essential Iranian delicious dishes

Top 10 Essential Iranian delicious dishes

Persian Food Primer: 10 Essential Iranian Dishes
A true gourmet must know gormeh. We have proof.

A visit to Iran yields a stunning variety of culinary delights. That's because of the country's unique history and geography, which translates to a diverse mix of cultural in×uences on the cuisine. Louisa ShaÖa, author of The New Persian Kitchen, guides us through the basics.

A visit to Iran yields a stunning variety of culinary delights. That’s because of the country’s unique history and geography, which translates to a diverse mix of cultural in×uences on the cuisine. Louisa ShaÖa, author of The New Persian Kitchen, guides us through the basics.

By: Louisa ShaÖa: A visit to Iran yields a stunning variety of culinary delights. Between the familiar kebab and the decidedly outré grilled lamb’s testicles, there’s a vast spectrum of foods: caviar, pickle, and smoked äsh in the north; samosas, falafel and hot and sour shrimp in the south; noodles, åatbread and rosewater-scented ice cream across the country. Take a look at Iran’s place on the map and it’s easy to understand why the scope of native foods is so wide. Once the center of the Persian Empire, Iran neighbors the former Soviet Union countries, as well as Afghanistan, Pakistan, the Arab states and Turkey. Although Iran is part of the Middle East, it has close ties to Europe, the Far East and Africa, owing to its central place on the Silk Road trade route.

Kebabs come in many kinds: beef, chicken, lamb liver, among them.

Kebabs come in many kinds: beef, chicken, lamb liver, among them.

What’s more, the ancient warrior-king of Greece, Alexander the Great, conquered the Persian Empire back in the 4th century, and later it was invaded by Arabs, Turks, Mongols and Uzbeks. While Iranians already had a well-developed food identity before these invasions, they assimilated what the outsiders brought in. Think Russian-style borscht with cumin and cilantro and Chinese noodles in a soup of beans, herbs and sour fermented whey. Many coveted ingredients are native to Iran, including pistachios, almonds, walnuts, saffron, mint, oranges, pomegranates and grapes. Iran has a variable climate with four distinct seasons, and unlike other parts of the Middle East, where the dry terrain limited what food could be grown, the ancient Persians transformed vast stretches of arid land into fertile oases via underground aquifers that drew melted snow water into the desert. A bright, sensuous, fruit-and-herb älled cuisine was born. A core curriculum of classic Persian favorites can be found on most Persian-American restaurant menus. Here are 10 to try. Noosh-e jan! (Yes, that’s Farsi for “bon appétit.”)

 

fesenjoun-8490c5929c0547cf4f337dbf5226ce9]1. Fesenjan (Pomegranate Walnut Stew) This iconic stew, an essential part of every Persian wedding menu, pairs tart pomegranate with chicken or duck. Ground walnuts, pomegranate paste and onions are slowly simmered to make a thick sauce. Sometimes saffron and cinnamon are added, and maybe a pinch of sugar to balance the acid. Fesenjan has a long pedigree. At the ruins of Persepolis, the ancient ritual capital of the Persian Empire, archaeologists found inscribed stone tablets from as far back as 515 B.C., which listed 5/9/2016 Persian Food Primer: 10 Essential Iranian Dishes – Food Republic http://www.foodrepublic.com/2014/10/29/persian­food­primer­10­essential­iranian­dishes/ 4/9 pantry staples of the early Iranians. They included walnuts, poultry and pomegranate preserves, the key ingredients in fesenjan.

Bademjan (Eggplant And Tomato Stew)

2. Bademjan (Eggplant And Tomato Stew) This stew has the shimmering red-gold color of tomatoes cooked with turmeric, with a sheen of oil on top, a prized characteristic in Persian cooking that shows a stew has been cooked long enough for the oils to rise up. Slightly tart, with the tang of tomatoes, lemon juice, and sometimes the juice of unripe grapes, its tanginess is kept in check by the eggplant, which is ärst fried on its own until golden-brown, then cooked with onions, lamb and the tomatoes and seasoning. Like all Persian stews, bademjan is thick and meant to be eaten over rice with a fork.

Baghali Polo (Rice With Dill And Fava Beans) In Iranian cooking,

3. Baghali Polo (Rice With Dill And Fava Beans) In Iranian cooking, rice can be prepared simply with butter and saffron, known as chelo. But just as often, it’s cooked with other ingredients and called polo. Polo can be made with herbs, vegetables, beans, nuts, dried fruit, meat and even noodles, and acts as the centerpiece of the meal. This polo is particularly good in the spring, when fava beans are young and tender and dill is in season. The dish is åecked with green dill and favas, and is often cooked with very tender chunks of lamb. Alternately, it may be served alongside lamb on the bone. The rice should have a mild saffron åavor, with the saffron mixed into the rice just before serving.

Zereshk Polo (Barberry Rice) Iranians love sour åavors

4. Zereshk Polo (Barberry Rice) Iranians love sour åavors. Like cranberries, barberries have a vibrant red color, but they’re even more sour. This classic rice dish is studded with the red berries, which are dried and then rehydrated before cooking. The rice is cooked with plenty of butter, which helps to soften the intensity of the berries. Quince, rhubarb, green plums, sour oranges, lemons, limes, dried limes, sour cherries, tamarind, sumac and pomegranate are all used in Persian cooking to make food more tart.

Gormeh Sabzi (Green Herb Stew) Made from herbs, kidney beans and lamb

5. Gormeh Sabzi (Green Herb Stew) Made from herbs, kidney beans and lamb, deep green gormeh sabzi satisäes two Persian åavor obsessions: it’s sour and full of herbs. The stew is seasoned with dried limes, limoo omani in Farsi. These limes are extra intense and sour, with a bittersweet taste that gives the stew a unique åavor. The other constant in gormeh sabzi is fenugreek leaves, a taste unfamiliar to most westerners. Other herbs include parsley, coriander and scallions.

Ash e Reshteh (Noodle and Bean Soup) A richly textured soup full of noodles, beans, herbs and leafy greens like spinach and beet leaves.

6. Ash e Reshteh (Noodle and Bean Soup) A richly textured soup full of noodles, beans, herbs and leafy greens like spinach and beet leaves. It’s topped with mint oil, crunchy fried onions and sour kashk, a fermented whey product eaten in the Middle East that tastes akin to sour yogurt. The noodles, which made their way to Iran from China, are thought to represent the many paths of life, and this soup is traditionally served when someone sets off on a long journey. Because of its auspicious ingredients, it’s also part of the menu for Norooz, the Persian new year, which occurs at the spring equinox in March.

 

Tadig , Tadiq

7. Tahdig (Crunchy Fried Rice)

It’s the crisp, golden layer of fried rice at the bottom of the rice pot, and it tastes like a combination of popcorn and potato chips, but with the delicate åavor of basmati ice. (Tahdig is usually not printed on the menu, so you may have to ask for it.) At Iranian family gatherings, there are always plenty of leftovers, but the one dish that disappears completely is tahdig. It’s eaten as a side dish, and it’s forgivable to pick it up and eat it with your ängers

Jeweled Rice (Rice with Nuts and Dried Fruit)

8. Jeweled Rice (Rice with Nuts and Dried Fruit) Dotted with brightly colored dried fruit and nuts, like little jewels, this is a sweet-andsavory dish that shows off some of the native ingredients of Iran, including pistachios, almonds, candied orange peel, barberries, carrots and saffron. It’s cooked with a little sugar to balance the sourness of the barberries. Jeweled rice is served for special occasions, particularly at weddings, because the sweet elements symbolize a sweet life. It’s traditionally served with chicken, which contrasts nicely with the sweetness.

Perian kabab

9. Kebab (Lamb, Chicken, Lamb Liver, Ground Meat) Kebabs have more variety than you might think. First, there’s koobideh, ground meat seasoned with minced onion, salt and pepper. It sounds simple, but the taste is sublime. There is kebab-e barg, thinly sliced lamb or beef, åavored with lemon juice and onion and basted with saffron and butter. Chicken kebab, known as joojeh, is traditionally made from a whole chicken, bones and all, for more åavor (although in American restaurants it’s often made from skinless chicken breast), marinated in lemon and onion, and basted with saffron and butter. If you’re lucky, you’ll änd jigar, lamb liver kebab, garnished with fresh basil leaves and a wedge of lemon.

Sabzi Khordan (Herb and Cheese Plate)

10. Sabzi Khordan (Herb and Cheese Plate) No Persian meal is complete without a dish of sabzi khordan, or edible herbs. The plate can include mint, tarragon, basil and cilantro, alongside scallions, radishes, walnuts, feta cheese and Iranian nan (åatbread). Simply tear off a piece of åatbread, tuck a bit of the herbs and cheese and other garnishes inside, and fold it up like a rustic sandwich. The plate stays on the table throughout the meal, and the herbs are a crunchy palate cleanser between bites of stew and rice. Fresh and dried green herbs are eaten daily in Iran. The Zoroastrian new year Norooz celebrates rebirth and renewal, and the Norooz menu includes several dishes made with green herbs representing new life, including rice with herbs, an herb omelet and the herb platter.

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Shahsevan nomad women

Shahsevan nomad women

Kind women of Shahsevan nomadic tribes play key role in the economic life of their community, usually hosted by Sabalan outskirts during spring and summer. Photo: MNA

 

SHAHSEVAN (Šāhsevan), name of a number of tribal groups in various parts of northwestern Iran, notably in the Moḡān and Ardabil districts of eastern Azerbaijan and in the Ḵaraqān and Ḵamsa districts between Zanjān and Qazvin. Most of the latter groups also originated in Moḡān (see DAŠT-e MOḠĀN), where Shahsevan ancestors were located during Safavid times.

The Shahsevan traditionally pursued a nomadic pastoral way of life, migrating between winter pastures near sea-level in Moḡān and summer quarters 100-200 km to the south on the Sabalān (or Savalan) and neighboring ranges, in the districts of Ardabil, Meškin, and Sarāb. The nomads formed a minority of the population in this region, though, like the settled majority, whom they knew as Tāt, they were Shiʿi Muslims, and spoke Turkish.

Unlike the Baḵtiāri and the Qašqāʾi of the Zagros, the Shahsevan lived in an accessible and much-frequented frontier zone. The fertile Moḡān steppe, extensively irrigated in mediaeval times, was the site chosen by Nāder Shah Afšār (in 1736) and Āḡā Moḥammad Khan Qajar (in 1796) for their coronations. Shahsevan summer pastures, surrounded by rich farmlands, lay between Ardabil, a historically important shrine city and trade centre, and Tabriz, capital of several past rulers. Grain, fruit, wool and meat from the region have long been widely marketed. Raw silk produced in the neighboring provinces of Gilān and Shirvan figured prominently in international trade passing through or near Shahsevan territory. Control of these resources was a major motivation for conquest: since the 16th century, Persian, Ottoman, and Russian and Soviet forces claimed or occupied Shahsevan territory on several occasions each. In such a location, Shahsevan relations with governments have taken a different course from those of the Zagros tribes.

Origins and history. Shahsevan history since the early 18th century is fairly well documented, but their origins remain obscure. Turkic identity and culture are overwhelmingly dominant among them, though the ancestors of several component tribes were of Kurdish or other origins. Apart from their frontier location and history, they differ from other nomadic tribal groups in Iran in various aspects of their culture and social and economic organization. Most distinctive is their tent-hut, the hemispherical, felt-covered alačıq. This dwelling and other cultural features can be traced to the Ḡozz Turkic tribes of Central Asia that invaded Southwest Asia in the 11th century C.E.

The Shahsevan were a collection of tribal groups brought together in a confederacy some time between the 16th and the 18th centuries. Most discussions of the term Shahsevan refer to its original meaning as extreme personal loyalty and religious devotion to the Safavid kings.

By the 20th century, the Shahsevan had acquired three rather different versions of their origins. The best known is that they were a new tribe formed as part of the military and tribal policies of the Safavid rulers. This is based on a passage in Sir John Malcolm’s History of Persia (London, 1815, I, p. 556), to the effect that Shah Abbas I (1587-1629) formed a special composite tribe of his own under the name of Shahsevan, in order to counteract the turbulence of the rebellious qezelbāš chiefs, who had helped his ancestor Shah Esmāʿil to found the Safavid dynasty a century earlier. Vladimir Minorsky, in his article “Shāh-sewan” in EI1, noted that “the known facts somewhat complicate Malcolm’s story” and that the references in contemporary Safavid chronicles did not amount to evidence that “a single regularly constituted tribe was ever founded by Shāh ʿAbbās under the name of Shāh-sewan.” In later readings of Malcolm’s account, the Shahsevan appear as a personal militia, a royal guard, and there is some evidence for the existence of a military corps named Shahsevan in the mid-17th century.

Minorsky drew attention to the writings of several Russian officials who recorded the traditions of the Shahsevan of Moḡān with whom they were in contact during the 19th century. These traditions, which differ from but do not contradict Malcolm’s story, vary in detail, but agree that Shahsevan ancestors came from Anatolia, led by one Yünsür Pasha. They present the Shahsevan tribes as ruled by paramount chiefs (elbey/ilbegi) descended from Yünsür Pasha, and as divided between chiefly beyzadä (beg-zāda; descendants of the original immigrants) and commoners (hampā or rayät/raʿiyat). They refer to an original royal grant of pastures in Ardabil and Moḡān, and to the contemporary royal appointment of the chiefs. These legends, presumably originating with the chiefs, legitimate both their authority over the commoners and their control of the pastures, the most important resource for all their nomad followers. This writer heard similar legends in the 1960s from descendants of former elbeys.

This second version of Shahsevan origins gave way in the 20th century to both the first version and a third, commonly articulated among the ordinary tribesmen and in modern writings on them. In the third version the Shahsevan are thirty-two tribes (otuz-iki tayfa/ṭāyefa), all of equal status, and no mention of paramount chiefs is made. The basis of this story is obscure, but it may refer to the presumed origin of the Shahsevan from among the 16th-17th-century qezelbāš tribes, which in some accounts also numbered thirty-two.

Safavid sources published to this date provide no historical evidence for Malcolm’s story, which is based on a misreading of chronicle sources. Nevertheless, most historians, Iranian and foreign, have adopted it, and it has been assimilated through modern education into Iranian and even current Shahsevan mythology. Among recent writers on the Safavids, only a few acknowledge the doubts about Malcolm’s story; some refrain from comment on Shahsevan origins, others, while referring to Minorsky’s and sometimes this writer’s investigations, ignore the conclusions and reproduce the old myth as historical fact (see Tapper, 1997, pt. I).

Neither the first nor the second versions of Shahsevan origins can be fully documented. Sixteenth-century sources do record tribal groups and individuals in the Moḡān region bearing the names of later Shahsevan component tribes. By the late 17th century the name Shahsevan, often as a military title in addition to qezelbāš tribal names such as Afšār and Šāmlu (and Šāmlu components such as Beydili/Begdeli, Inallı/Ināllu, Ajirli/Ajirlu), is associated with Moḡān and Ardabil. Other prominent tribes in the region were the qezelbāš Takile/Tekeli, and the Kurdish Šaqāqi and Moḡāni/Moḡānlu. But there is no firm evidence of a unified Shahsevan tribe or confederacy as such until the following century.

In the 1720s, with the rapid fall of the Safavid dynasty to the Afghans at Isfahan, and Ottoman and Russian invasions in northwest Persia, for several crucial years Moḡān and Ardabil were at the meeting point of three empires. The tribal groups of this frontier region were thrust into a political role for which they would have been ill-prepared by decades of peace. Records for those years, the first that mention Shahsevan activities in any detail, depict them as loyal frontiersmen, struggling to resist the Ottoman invaders and to defend the Safavid shrine city of Ardabil, especially in the campaigns of 1726 and 1728. Ottoman armies crushed the Šaqāqi in Meškin in autumn 1728, and then in early 1729 cornered the other tribes in Moḡān. Leaving the Ināllu and Afšar to surrender to the Ottomans, the Shahsevan and Moḡānlu crossed the Kura/Kor river to Salyan to take refuge with the Russians, under the leadership of ʿAliqoli Khan Shahsevan, a local landowner.

When Nāder Shah Afšār recovered the region in 1732, the Shahsevan and Moḡānlu returned to Iranian sovereignty. The Šaqāqi, Ināllu and Afšār who had been defeated by the Ottomans were among numerous tribes Nāder exiled to his home province, Khorasan. After his death (1747), the Šaqāqi returned to settle around Miāna, Sarāb, and Ḵalḵāl, and the Ināllu and Afšār (both now bearing the name Shahsevan too) to the Ḵaraqān, Ḵamsa, and Ṭārom regions south and southeast of Ardabil. One of Nāder’s assassins, Musā Beg Shahsevan, was apparently from the Afšār who settled in Ṭārom.

Nāder Shah seems to have formed the tribes remaining in Moḡān and Ardabil into a unified and centralized confederacy under Badr Khan Shahsevan, one of his generals in the Khorasan and Turkestan campaigns. Possibly son of ʿAliqoli Khan, Badr Khan is linked by the later traditions with Yünsür Pasha, and his family, the Sarı-ḵanbeyli  (Sāru-ḵānbeglu), probably came from the Urmia Afšārs. Shahsevan chiefly tribes such as Qojabeyli, ʿIsālı, Balabeyli, Mast-ʿAlibeyli, ʿAli-Babalı, Polatlı, Damirčili, traced cousinship with the Sarı-ḵānbeyli Afšār. Many of the commoner tribes (such as Ajirli and Beydili) bear names indicating Šāmlu origins.

In the turbulent decades after Nāder’s death, Badr Khan’s son (or brother?) Nażar ʿAli Khan Shahsevan governed the city and district of Ardabil. Shahsevan khans participated actively in the political rivalries and alliances of the time, involving the semi-independent neighboring khans of Qara Dagh, Qara Bagh, Qobba, Sarāb and Gilān, the Afšār, Afghan, Zand, and Qajar tribal rulers of Iran, and agents and forces of the Russian Empire. By 1800 the Sarı-ḵānbeyli family had split, dividing the Shahsevan into two confederacies, associated with the districts of Ardabil and Meškin.

Under the early Qajars, the two wars with Russia raged across Shahsevan territory and resulted in the loss of the best part of their winter quarters in Moḡān, and considerable movements of tribes southwards. The khans of Ardabil, notably Nażar ʿAli Khan’s (?) nephew Farajallāh Khan and grandson, also called Nażar ʿAli Khan, despite deposition from the governorship in 1808, generally supported the Qajars; their cousins and rivals, the khans of Meškin, especially ʿAṭā Khan and his brother Šükür (Šokrallāh) Khan, eventually accommodated the Russian invaders.

For some decades after the Treaty of Turkmanchai (1828) Russia permitted Shahsevan nomads limited access to their former pasturelands in Moḡān, but they failed to observe the limitations. The Russians wished to develop their newly acquired territories, and for this and other more strategic reasons found Shahsevan disorder on the frontier a convenient excuse for bringing moral and political pressure to bear on the Persian government, insisting that they restrain or settle the “lawless” nomads. Persian government policy towards the tribes varied from virtual abdication of authority to predatory punitive expeditions, and an attempt in 1860-61 at wholesale settlement.

The mid-19th century is the first period for which there is any detailed information on Shahsevan tribal society: the main sources are the reports of Russian officials, especially Moḡān frontier Commissioner I. A. Ogranovich and Tabriz Consul-general E. Krebel, though Keith Abbott, British Consul-general in Tabriz, is also informative.

By this time most of the Ardabil tribes, like their elbeys, were already settled. Most of the Meškin tribes, however, despite the brief forced settlement of 1860-61 and the famine and bad winters of 1870-72, remained nomadic; but their elbeys too, especially ʿAṭā Khan’s son Farżi Khan (between 1840 and 1883) and his son ʿAliqoli Khan (1883-1903), had settled bases and soon lost overall control of the nomads. Both elbey families had marriage ties with the Qajar kings, and several members served at court or as military officers.

No longer a unified confederacy with a dynastic central leadership, Shahsevan tribal structure reformed on new principles. Weaker tribes clustered around a new elite of warrior chiefs of the Qojabeyli (notably Nurullāh Bey), ʿIsālu, Ḥāj-ḵojalu and Geyikli tribes in Meškin, and the Polatlı and Yortči in Ardabil. A shifting pattern of rivalries and alliances extended into neighboring regions, involving the powerful chiefs of the Alarlu tribe of Ojarud, the Šatranlu (an offshoot of the Šaqāqi) of Ḵalḵāl, and the Čalabianlu and Ḥāj-ʿAlilu of Qara Dagh.

Russia finally closed the Moḡān frontier to the Shahsevan in 1884. The winter pasturelands in Persia were redistributed among the tribes, but the Moḡān and Ardabil region and the nomads confined there underwent a drastic social and economic upheaval, whose causes were to be found not simply in the closure but also in the behavior of administrative officials. The Shahsevan, numbering over ten-thousand families, were virtually independent of central government for nearly four decades, known as khankhanlıkh or ashrarlıkh, the time of the independent khans or rebels. Although some, such as Moḡānlu, the largest tribe, pursued a pastoral life as best they could, for most nomads life was dominated by insecurity and increasing banditry and vendettas between the warriors of the chiefly retinues.

Russian officials give a detailed and depressing picture of the upheaval, without appreciating or admitting the degree to which their 19th-century rivalry with Britain was responsible for both the frontier situation and the abuses of the Persian administration. V. Markov, concerned only to justify Russian actions and their benefits to the inhabitants of Russian Moḡān, having narrated in detail the events leading up to the closure, does not consider its effects on the Persian side. L. N. Artamonov, however, conducted a military-geographical survey of the region in November 1889, a year after Markov, and was shocked at the poverty and oppression of the peasantry and the obvious distress and disorder suffered by the nomads as a result of the closure. In 1903, Colonel L. F. Tigranov of the Russian General Staff published an informative and perceptive account of the economic and social conditions of the Ardabil province and of the nomad and settled Shahsevan. The detailed reports of Artamonov and Tigranov, although clearly to an extent influenced by political bias, are corroborated by other sources, including accounts recorded by this writer among elderly Shahsevan in the early 1960s.

The Shahsevan reached the heyday of their power and influence in the first decades of the 20th century. They were involved in various important events during the Constitutional Revolution and the years leading to the rise of Reza Shah. In spring 1908, border clashes between Russian frontier guards and Shahsevan tribesmen near Belasovar provided the Russians with a pretext for military intervention in Azerbaijan on a scale that hastened the fall of the Constitutionalist government in Tehran. During the winter of 1908-09, a few Shahsevan joined the Royalist forces besieging Tabriz. In late 1909, while the new nationalist government struggled to establish control of the country, most of the Shahsevan chiefs joined Raḥim Khan Čalabianlu of Qara Dagh and Amir ʿAšāyer Šatranlu of Ḵalḵāl in a union of tribes of eastern Azerbaijan, proclaiming opposition to the Constitution and the intention of marching on Tehran to restore the deposed Moḥammad ʿAli Shah. They plundered Ardabil, receiving wide coverage in the European press, but were defeated soon after by nationalist forces from Tehran under Epʿrem Khan. Subsequent Shahsevan harrying of Russian occupying forces at Ardabil led to a major campaign against them in 1912 by 5,000 troops under General Fidarov, who after many reverses succeeded in rounding up most of the tribes and depriving them of half their property. Despite this catastrophe, remembered in the 1960s as bölgi-yılı, the year of division, Shahsevan warriors continued their guerrilla resistance. During World War I, they were wooed in turn by Russian, Turkish, and British forces. Until the restoration of central government authority under Reza Khan, the Shahsevan chiefs usually controlled the region, pursuing their local ambitions and rivalries, focused on the city of Ardabil and smaller urban centers, and uniting only to oppose Bolshevik incursions in 1920-22. Prominent among the chiefs (those of Ojarud, Qara Dagh, Sarāb, and Ḵalḵāl were now generally talked of as Shahsevan too) were Bahrām Qojabeyli, Amir Aṣlān ʿIsālu, Javād Ḥāj-ḵojalu, Faraj Geyikli, Najafqoli Alarlu, Amir Aršad Ḥāj-ʿAlilu, Naṣrallāh Yortči, Amir ʿAšāyer Šatranlu, and his sister ʿAẓamat Khānom, chief of the Polatlu.

During the winter and spring of 1922-23 the Shahsevan were among the first of the major tribal groups to be pacified and disarmed by Reza Khan’s army.  Under the Pahlavis, the tribes were integrated within the new nation-state as equal units under recognized and loyal chiefs. In 1927 the actions of the new gendarmerie provoked a brief revolt, led by Bahrām Qojabeyli. In the mid-1930s, Reza Shah’s brutally enforced settlement of nomads caused considerable economic and social destitution, and was soon abandoned. In 1941, many Shahsevan resumed migrations and revived a loose tribal confederacy, causing trouble to the Soviet occupation forces and the subsequent Democrat regime of 1946.

The disastrous winter of 1948-49 led to a new irrigation scheme in Moḡān, and settlement of the nomads remained an axiom of government policy. From 1960, a series of measures broke down the tribal organization, while pastoralism suffered a sharp decline. The chiefs were dismissed, and the Land Reform not only deprived many chiefs of their power base but nationalized the range-lands and opened them to outsiders. Forced to apply for permits for their traditional pastures, and increasingly using trucks in place of camels for their migrations, the pastoralists were drawn into national and wider economic and political structures. More extensive irrigation works and agro-industrial schemes were inaugurated in Moḡān, which, together with the expansion of farming in the southern highlands, further reduced the pasturelands and increased the rate of settlement.

The revolution of 1978-79 was largely an urban phenomenon. Shahsevan nomads themselves played little part, but settled tribespeople participated in events in towns such as Meškinšahr, Pārsābād, Belasovar and Germi, and in strikes at the Agro-Industry Company in Moḡān. A few former chiefs were killed in these events, others went into exile. As part of the new regime’s rejection of anything to do with monarchy, the Shahsevan were officially renamed Elsevan, “those who love the people (or tribe),” but the new name was not widely accepted and by 1992 it was no longer widely used officially. Pastoral nomadism experienced a modest revival among the Shahsevan, as elsewhere in Iran, such that in the Socio-economic Census of Nomads of 1986 the Shahsevan numbered nearly 6,000 families, as they had in the mid-1960s. At the same time, settlement has continued, following the inexorable spread of various government-supported developments in Moḡān. By the end of the century, Shahsevan pastoral nomadism did not seem likely to survive much longer.

Economic and social organization of the Moḡān Shahsevan. In each alačıq lives a household of, on average, seven to eight people. In the 1960s, groups of three to five closely related nomad households co-operated in an oba, a herding unit that formed a summer camp between June and early September, but joined with others to form a winter camp of ten to fifteen households between November and April. Two or three such winter camps, linked by agnatic ties between the male household heads as a lineage (göbak), would form a tribal section (tira). The section was usually also a community (jamahat/jamāʿat), which moved as a unit during the migrations in May and October, and performed many religious ceremonies jointly. Every group, from herding unit to community, was led by a recognized elder (aq-saqal). The tribe (tayfa), comprising from two to over twenty sections and from fifty to nearly 1,000 households, was a larger community, members of which felt themselves different in subtle ways from members of other tribes. Few contacts, and only one in ten marriages, were made between tribes. In the mid-20th century, the Shahsevan confederacy (el/il) was a loosely organized collection of some forty tribes. After the dismissal of the chiefs, government attempted to deal directly with the sections and their elders, who, as a result, were often younger men, from the wealthiest family in the community, who had the skills and resources to deal with the authorities. But the tribe continued to be important, and remained the main element in Shahsevan identity, nomadic or settled.

Perhaps the most important distinguishing feature of the Shahsevan was their system of grazing rights. Where other nomads operated some type of communal access to grazing, the Shahsevan developed an unusual system whereby individual pastoralists inherited, bought or rented known proportions of the grazing rights to specific named and bounded pastures, although in practice members of a herding unit would exploit their rights jointly. This system was formally invalidated by the nationalization of the pastures in the 1960s, but continued to operate informally at least until the 1990s.

Shahsevan nomads traditionally raised flocks of sheep and goats, the former for milk and milk products, wool, and meat, the latter only in small numbers, mainly as flock leaders. They used camels, donkeys, and horses for transport. Most families raised chickens for eggs and meat, and a few kept cows. Every family had several fierce dogs, to guard the home and the animals against thieves and predators. Bread was their staple food. Some nomads had some settled relatives with whom they cooperated in a dual economy, sharing or exchanging pastoral for agricultural produce. Most, however, sold milk, wool and surplus animals to tradesmen in order to obtain wheat flour and other supplies. Some worked as hired shepherds, paid 5 percent of the animals they tended for every 6-month contract period. Others went to towns and villages seasonally for casual wage-labor. Itinerant peddlers visited most days, but householders went on shopping expeditions to town at least twice a year, e.g. during the migrations. Most purchases were made on credit, against next season’s pastoral produce. The wealthiest nomads raised flocks of sheep commercially, and owned shares in village lands as absentee landlords.

Women too had their elders (aq-birčak, “grey-hairs”), consulted privately by the male elders; among the women the female elders exercised influence in public, at feasts attended by guests from a wide range of communities. At feasts, men and women were segregated. While the men enjoyed music and other entertainment, in the women’s tent the elders discussed matters of importance to both men and women, such as marriage arrangements, disputes, and irregular behavior among community members or broader subjects bearing on economic and political affairs. They formed opinions and made decisions, which were then spread as the women returned home and told their menfolk and friends. This unusual information network among the women served a most important function for the society as a whole.

Shahsevan women produced a variety of colorful and intricate flat-woven rugs, storage bags and blankets, and some knotted pile carpets, but these were all for domestic use and figured prominently in girls’ trousseaux on marriage. In the 1970s, however, the international Oriental Carpet trade recognized that a whole category of what had previously been regarded as “Kurdish” or “Caucasian” tribal weavings were in fact made by Shahsevan nomads. Meanwhile, hard times and escalating prices forced many nomads to dispose of items never intended for sale. Since the Islamic Revolution, Shahsevan weavers have increasingly produced for the foreign market, adjusting their styles accordingly.

The Shahsevan of Ḵaraqān and Ḵamsa. In the 19th century there were five major Shahsevan groups in these regions: Ināllu, Baḡdādi, Qortbeyli, Doveyran, and Afšār-Doveyran. The Baḡdādi have traditions of origin in Iraq, while the others, all of Šāmlu or Afšār origins, appear to be descended from groups removed from Moḡān in the 18th century. Most of them were settled by 1900. The Ināllu and Baḡdādi provided important military contingents for the Qajar army (see R. Tapper, 1997, app. 1, pp. 349-55; Ḥasani, 1990; idem, 2002).

 

Bibliography:

For Shahsevan history, the most comprehensive account, on which this article is based, is Richard Tapper, Frontier Nomads of Iran: A Political and Social History of the Shahsevan, Cambridge, 1997; Pers. tr. Ḥasan Asadi, Tāriḵ-e siāsi-ejtemāʿi-e Šāhsevanhā-ye Moḡān, Tehran, 2005; Turk. tr. F. Dilek Özdemir, Iranın Sınır Boylarında Göçebeler; Çahsevenlerin Toplumsal ve Politik Tarihi, Istanbul, 2004.

For an ethnographic analysis, based on field study in the 1960s, see Richard Tapper, Pasture and Politics: Economics, Conflict and Ritual among Shahsevan Nomads of Northwestern Iran, London, 1979.

For women, see Nancy Tapper, “The women’s sub-society among the Shahsevan nomads,” in Lois Beck and Nikki Keddie, eds, Women in the Muslim World, Cambridge, Mass., 1978, pp. 374-98; Nancy Lindisfarne-Tapper, “The dress of the Shahsevan tribespeople of Iranian Azerbaijan,” in idem and Bruce Ingham, eds., Languages of Dress in the Middle East, London, 1997.

For human and physical geography of the region, see Günther Schweizer, “Nordost-Azerbaidschan und Shah Sevan-Nomaden”, in Eckart Ehlers, Fred Scholz and Günther Schweizer, Strukturwandlungen im Nomadisch-Bäuerlichen Lebensraum des Orients, Wiesbaden, 1970, pp. 83-148.

On Shahsevan dwellings, see Peter Andrews, “Alachïkh and küme: the felt tents of Azarbaijan”, in Rainer Graefe and Peter Andrews, eds., Geschichte des Konstruierens III (Konzepte SFB 230, Heft 28), Stuttgart, 1987, pp. 49-135.

On Shahsevan textiles, see Jenny Housego, Tribal rugs: an introduction to the weaving of the tribes of Iran, London, 1978; Siyawosch Azadi and Peter Andrews, Mafrash, Berlin, 1985; Parviz Tanavoli, Shahsavan: Iranian rugs and textiles, New York, 1985.

Local histories, valuable for the late 19th and the 20th centuries, include Mir Nabi ‘Aziz-zāda, Tāriḵ-e Dašt-e Moḡān, Tehran, 2005, which reproduces a large collection of documents from both national and family archives of Moḡān and former Shahsevan chiefly families.

See also Ḥosayn Bāyburdi, Tāriḵ-e Arasbārān, Tehran, 1962; Bābā Safari, Ardabil dar goẕargāh-e tāriḵ, 3 vols., Tehran, 1971-83; Nāṣer Daftar-ravāʾi, Ḵāterāt o asnād, ed. Iraj Afšār and Behzād Razzāqi, Tehran, 1984.

Monographs in Persian include Paričehra Šāhsevand-Baḡdādi, Barrasi-e masāʾel-e ejtemāʿi, eqteṣādi o siāsi-e il-e Šāhsevan, Tehran, 1991; Mehdi Mizbān, Il-e Šāhsevan: Mawred-e motaleʿa tāyefa-ye Geyiklu, tira-ye Ḥāji-imānlu, MA thesis, Islamic Free University, Tehran, 1992; Moḥammad-Reżā Begdili, Ilsevanhā (Šāhsevanhā)-ye Irān, Tehran, 1993; Aḥad Nāṣeri-Belasovar, Dašt-e Moḡān dar goẕargāh-e tāriḵ, n.p. ,1993; ʿAtāʾ-Allāh Ḥasani, “Tāriḵča-ye il-e Šāhsevan-e Baḡdādi,” PhD thesis, Islamic Free University, Tehran, 1990.; idem, Farhang-e tāriḵi-e il-e Šāhsevan-e Baḡdādi, Tehran, 2002.

(Richard Tapper)

Originally Published: October 22, 2010

Last Updated: October 22, 2010

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Iran volleyball achieves first-ever Olympic qualification

Iran volleyball achieves first-ever Olympic qualification

Iran has been waiting to qualify volleyball for the Olympic Games for 52 years. That wait is now over. The Iran men’s team will be going to Rio for this year’s Olympic Games after qualifying in Tokyo on Saturday.

Iran volleyball achieved a historic feat as they earned their first-ever Olympic Games qualification, beating Poland 3-1 (25-20, 25-18, 20-25, 34-32) at Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium on Saturday.

Shahram Mahmoudi once again delivered a superb scoring performance. Mahmoudi had 24 points, including 20 attacks, two blocks and two aces.

Poland opposite Dawid Konarski, who started in the match, topped all scorers with 29 points, while team-mate Artur Szalpuk logged 21 markers. Although Poland had more attacks in the match, but Iran limited their errors to a minimum of 18.

Poland coach Stephane Antiga opted to use his reserves in the opening set, which allowed Iran to have a spirited run. Poland led briefly in the first set at 6-4 then Iran levelled the score at 10-all, fivb.com reported.

The Iranian players Shahram Mahmoudi and Seyed Mohammed Mousavi had an upsurge and stole the show from the European side as they led at 16-12 at the second technical timeout. Iran safeguarded their lead then reached set point, until Konarski’s serve went long that concluded the set 25-20. Iran continued to have excellent rhythm, while Poland blundered on their serves and attack. Farhad Ghaemi served two aces that stretched the Iranian lead to 22-15. Then the next few plays were a point-by-point exchange that favoured Iran as they closed the set 25-18.

Iran played a very fast-paced game in the third but Poland had set-up better offensive patterns for Konarski and Szalpuk. Poland gained a three-point cushion that made it easier for them to make a run and take the set 25-20. Iran recovered from their third set loss and led 8-3 and 16-13 at the technical timeouts. Poland gave them a strong challenge after and tied the score at 19-all.

Bartosz Kurek was sent in to help out Poland and his presence gave Poland the strength to comeback. Iran struggled to close set and match, as Poland pushed to play extra points. Finally, Iran got a break as Michal Kubiak’s spike went out of bounds and his faulty reception enabled a free ball for Iran to counter with strong hit down the line at 34-32.

“I feel immensely happy. It is special because it is a historic moment for Iran. The people of Iran have been waiting for this chance to go to the Olympics for a long time. I don’t want to talk about statistics. I’m happy with the result. We will have a party tonight to celebrate,” Iran coach Raul Lozano said.

Raul Lozano’s men defeated Australia, Canada, Japan, China, Poland and Venezuela and lost to France.

 

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Yazd

Yazd

The capital of Yazd province has a unique Persian architecture. The historical city is nicknamed the city of wind catchers because of its ancient Persian wind catchers.

Yazd is almost in the center of Iran. It is an ancient city, dating from Sassanian Period (224-651 AD). Acording to UNESCO, Yazd is the Second Historic City in the World.
Get in

Yazd is located midway between Isfahan and Kerman, 689 km (427 miles) southeast of Tehran.

Yazd is served by all means of transportation except boats, both airplanes, trains and buses are available for tourists who would like to visit the city of Yazd. Also,Yazd is said to have one of the most safest and fast automobile routes throughout Iran because of its steady and well-built roads.

By Plane
There are International flights to Dubai and Damascus and daily flights to Tehran.

Get around
Most places in the old town are within easy walking distance from each other. Otherwise taxis are inexpensive.Motorcycle Taxis are another faster and cheaper way to move around in the city,but try to settle on a price before going anywhere. Local buses are also available for travelers.

See

  • Masjid-e Jame (Friday Mosque), dating back to the fourteenth century, is well worth a visit. Admire it at night when it is lit up.
  • Atashkadeh is the Zoroastrian fire temple. The fire on the inside has supposedly been burning since 470 AD. Entrance is free, though donations are appreciated.
  • Yazd Tower of silence (Zoroastrian’s Dakhmeh) – the name tower is misleading as they consist of huge circular walls, within those the dead were left to be picked clean by the vultures. This is done in accordance with Zoroastrian belief. However, the towers are not in use anymore and open to the public. A quiet, serene place.
  • Yazd Market Square’s Clock
    The cistern of Fatemeh-ye-Golshan
    Amir Chakhmakh complex, a breathtaking construction and a must-see. Visitors can climb to the top.
  • Amir Chakmakh mosque, not to be confused with the complex of the same name, but nearby and easily visited when visiting the more famous complex.
  • Yazd Water museum lots of interesting information about the Canat water distribution system, admission free, a must-see
  • Hazireh mosque
  • water reservoir with its four badgirs (wind towers)
  • Khan-e-Lari, a historical house
  • Alexanders prison, which was neither built by Alexander the great nor a prison, but quite an interesting sight with a cafe in the ‘prison room’
  • tomb of the 12 imams
  • Madrasse-e-Kamalieh
  • Bogeh-ye Seyed Rokamdin mosque
  • Dowlat Abad Gardens with a building with a beautiful large badgir.Do
    Walk and relax in the parks and places the city of Yazd can offer for tourists and local iranians or you can hike in the beautiful mountains of Yazd that show a spectacular and beautiful view of the city.If you are a more sociable kind of person,you can chat with local Iranians at cafes,they would be interested and would love to have a dialogue with you.Buy
    The local bazaar is the best way to go. Iran’s most famous snacks, nougat and cashews are available. Yazd is very famous in Iran for its various handicrafts, such as carpet, silk fabrics, cashemers and also for its pastries. If you are looking for Persian carpets at reasonable prices, there are many Persian carpets to choose from at the bazaar.

Eat
Tourists say old fashion Persian Restaurants are the best way to go if you want a more friendlier and more cultural atmosphere.If you are a Kebab lover,the city has many Kebab cuisines.There are a few international restaurants in Yazd which serve Italian,Indian,Arabic and Mexican food.

The traditional restaurant and tea house of Kohan Hotel is opened.There are served various kinds of iranian traditional foods,like FESSENJUN,GHEIME…and some delicious european,indian food,cooked by an Iranian lady!with a nice atmospher full of iranian paintings and tea house paintings,which gives you a different feeling!this place is strongly recommanded to all people,who want to enjoy their food near Alexander Prison.

Drink
Persian Tea is almost available anywhere in Yazd.Juice Vendors sell natural fresh Orange Juice which is considered very healthy.There are also Pomegrante Vendors who sell pomegrante juice for about the price of 0.10$ per cup.

Sleep
There are many nice, yet good value hotels to choose from. A number of grand, Old City houses have been recently refurbished into atmospheric hotels, some well, others not quite so well. Many of them offer immaculate, comfortable rooms arranged around tranquil garden courtyards where you can eat, drink tea or puff away on a ghalyan while gazing at the sky above. If you’ve been slumming it through questionable mosafekhanehs until Yazd, you’re in for a pleasant surprise.

Get out
Another city close by is the Holy city of Qom,If you feel like visiting a place more cultural and beautiful, the ancient city of Isfahan is near Yazd.
Kavir National Park. The magnificent Iranian deserts embrace all those who are interested in adventurous journey or trekking across the intact beautiful nature. The desert vividly signifies the diverse and colourful features of the Iranian terrain. The white vast salt flats, the golden dunes as well as the striking mounds in bright green, yellow and red create a marvellous spectrum of spectacular colours for day travellers in the desert. Undoubtedly, the desert’s night does surpass all expectations and further displays an spectacle of appealing stars–appearing so temptingly real and near.

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Tourist attractions of Yazd

Tourist attractions of Yazd

The capital of Yazd province has a unique Persian architecture. The historical city is nicknamed the city of wind catchers because of its ancient Persian wind catchers.

Yazd is almost in the center of Iran. It is an ancient city, dating from Sassanian Period (224-651 AD). Acording to UNESCO, Yazd is the Second Historic City in the World.
Get in

Yazd is located midway between Isfahan and Kerman, 689 km (427 miles) southeast of Tehran.

Yazd is served by all means of transportation except boats, both airplanes, trains and buses are available for tourists who would like to visit the city of Yazd. Also,Yazd is said to have one of the most safest and fast automobile routes throughout Iran because of its steady and well-built roads.

By Plane
There are International flights to Dubai and Damascus and daily flights to Tehran.

Get around
Most places in the old town are within easy walking distance from each other. Otherwise taxis are inexpensive.Motorcycle Taxis are another faster and cheaper way to move around in the city,but try to settle on a price before going anywhere. Local buses are also available for travellers.

See

  • Masjid-e Jame (Friday Mosque), dating back to the fourteenth century, is well worth a visit. Admire it at night when it is lit up.
  • Atashkadeh is the Zoroastrian fire temple. The fire on the inside has supposedly been burning since 470 AD. Entrance is free, though donations are appreciated.
  • Yazd Tower of silence (Zoroastrian’s Dakhmeh) – the name tower is misleading as they consist of huge circular walls, within those the dead were left to be picked clean by the vultures. This is done in accordance with Zoroastrian belief. However, the towers are not in use anymore and open to the public. A quiet, serene place.
  • Yazd Market Square’s Clock
    The cistern of Fatemeh-ye-Golshan
    Amir Chakhmakh complex, a breathtaking construction and a must-see. Visitors can climb to the top.
  • Amir Chakmakh mosque, not to be confused with the complex of the same name, but nearby and easily visited when visiting the more famous complex.
  • Yazd Water museum lots of interesting information about the Canat water distribution system, admission free, a must-see
  • Hazireh mosque
  • water reservoir with its four badgirs (wind towers)
  • Khan-e-Lari, a historical house
  • Alexanders prison, which was neither built by Alexander the great nor a prison, but quite an interesting sight with a cafe in the ‘prison room’
  • tomb of the 12 imams
  • Madrasse-e-Kamalieh
  • Bogeh-ye Seyed Rokamdin mosque
  • Dowlat Abad Gardens with a building with a beautiful large badgir.Do
    Walk and relax in the parks and places the city of Yazd can offer for tourists and local iranians or you can hike in the beautiful mountains of Yazd that show a spectacular and beautiful view of the city.If you are a more sociable kind of person,you can chat with local Iranians at cafes,they would be interested and would love to have a dialogue with you.

    Buy
    The local bazaar is the best way to go. Iran’s most famous snacks, nougat and cashews are available. Yazd is very famous in Iran for its various handicrafts, such as carpet, silk fabrics, cashemers and also for its pastries. If you are looking for Persian carpets at reasonable prices, there are many Persian carpets to choose from at the bazaar.

Eat
Tourists say old fashion Persian Restaurants are the best way to go if you want a more friendlier and more cultural atmosphere.If you are a Kebab lover,the city has many Kebab cuisines.There are a few international restaurants in Yazd which serve Italian,Indian,Arabic and Mexican food.

The traditional restaurant and tea house of Kohan Hotel is opened.There are served various kinds of iranian traditional foods,like FESSENJUN,GHEIME…and some delicious european,indian food,cooked by an Iranian lady!with a nice atmospher full of iranian paintings and tea house paintings,which gives you a different feeling!this place is strongly recommanded to all people,who want to enjoy their food near Alexander Prison.

Drink
Persian Tea is almost available anywhere in Yazd.Juice Vendors sell natural fresh Orange Juice which is considered very healthy.There are also Pomegrante Vendors who sell pomegrante juice for about the price of 0.10$ per cup.

Sleep
There are many nice, yet good value hotels to choose from. A number of grand, Old City houses have been recently refurbished into atmospheric hotels, some well, others not quite so well. Many of them offer immaculate, comfortable rooms arranged around tranquil garden courtyards where you can eat, drink tea or puff away on a ghalyan while gazing at the sky above. If you’ve been slumming it through questionable mosafekhanehs until Yazd, you’re in for a pleasant surprise.

Get out
Another city close by is the Holy city of Qom,If you feel like visiting a place more cultural and beautiful, the ancient city of Isfahan is near Yazd.
Kavir National Park. The magnificent Iranian deserts embrace all those who are interested in adventurous journey or trekking across the intact beautiful nature. The desert vividly signifies the diverse and colourful features of the Iranian terrain. The white vast salt flats, the golden dunes as well as the striking mounds in bright green, yellow and red create a marvellous spectrum of spectacular colours for day travellers in the desert. Undoubtedly, the desert’s night does surpass all expectations and further displays an spectacle of appealing stars–appearing so temptingly real and near.

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Tabriz

Tabriz

Welcome to Tabriz

Panomara_of_Tabriz-01

Tabriz, the capital city of Iranian province of  East Azerbaijan with a population around 1,500,000   lies at  46.13  east  and  38.8  north  with an altitude of  1363   meters  above  sea  level.  The temperature  varies between +38oC and –15oC.
The city is located on the intercontinental highway in vicinity to the Republics of Azerbaijan, Turkey and Armenia. Tabriz for a long time lay on a major trade route between the West and Asia and for many centuries it was a flourishing center of commercial trade. Outside Tabriz, there is a lot of attractive countryside with hills, valleys and mountains that can be reached quickly and easily. These hills are summer and winter resorts
Historical city of Tabriz or “Tauris” as Europeans would call in old times is widely believed to be one of the most ancient cradles of civilization in Azerbaijan and Iranian plateau. It was the capital of Atropatene, named after Atropates, one of the generals of Alexander the Great. We know from the discovered historical documents that the name; Tauris, for the first time, has been mentioned in an epigraph inscribed on an old stone tablet considered as belonging to Sargon (II), king of Assyria (714 BC). In this ancient inscription, the king reports of a strong castle called “Tauroei”Today most archaeologists and historians believe this castle was situated on the site of the present city of Tabriz.

Shopping centers are mostly located in city center, including Grand Bazaar of Tabriz
On the strength of the writings of some famous historians, researchers, and travelers such as Marco Polo, Chevalier Chardin, Harold Lamb, Iean Babtiste Tavernier and Ebne Batute, the old city of Tabriz with a population exceeding 1.2 million in the Middle Ages, was one of the biggest, richest and most important centers of commerce in the world. According to some other reports, there were as many as 200,000 residential houses in the city of Tabriz at the time.

Tabriz Historic Bazaar +Photo
The city lies within an active earthquake belt; as a result of this inescapable situation it has suffered severely over the centuries. It was re-built in 791 AD after being devastated by a catastrophic earthquake but similar disasters followed in 858, 1042, 1721 and 1780, to claim the life of thousands of people, leaving a completely ruined city.

Welcome to Tabriz, Blue Mosque

Near the end of 13th century, Tabriz became the capital of Mongol IL-Khan empire. Marco Polo, who visited the city in 1270, called “Tauris” (Tabriz) a great and noble city. In 1392 it was occupied by Timor (Tamerlane), a Turkic conqueror and some decades later the Kara Koyunlu Turkmen made Tabriz their capital. Early in the 16th century it was briefly the capital of Safavid dynasty of Iran until 1548, when Shah Tahmasb (I) moved his capital to Qazvin. The city ,however, lay directly in the path of the warring armies of Iran and the Ottaman empire; thus frequently suffered heavy loses. Due to these ever-present unstable conditions, the city failed to regain it’s early prosperity, although during the 19th and early 20th centuries it was traditional for the crown princes of the Qajar dynasty to live in Tabriz.

 

Among the cities of Iran, perhaps none is as renowned as Tabriz. Specially after the beginning of the constitutional era, when it achieved all those heroic victories in those revolutionary movements, Tabriz gained more prominence both in Iranian and European newspapers. Constitutional Revolution originated in Tabriz and culminated during the reign of Mohammad Ali Shah of Gajar Dynasty (1779-1925). Sattar Khan and Bager Khan were the two most prominent leading figures behind the movement. The name Tabriz, has been one of the most famous terms in Iran’s geography and in each century it’s name has been synonymous with momentous historic events.

With a very rich history, Tabriz used to house many historical monuments.

Unfortunately many of them were destroyed in wars, natural disasters such as earthquakes and floods, as well as negligence of the ruling governments. There are, however, still remains of several historical monuments for visitors dating back to the Ilkhanids, Safavids, and the Qajars, such as Ark Alishah (1316-1335), Kabud Mosque (1465), Bazar, promenade Elgoli with it’s lake and building, city hall and some other interesting places. Tabriz is also famous for it’s handicrafts (especially Azerbaijan artistic carpets). There is an archaeological and handicrafts museum in which antiquities from Azerbaijan and other areas are on display.

It is worth mentioning that in the course of it’s long historical presence of more than 3000 years, Tabriz, though has experienced a great many tragic events and misfortunes such as earthquakes, floods and bloody wars; it has, however, patiently maintained it’s existence throughout the history of mankind in the face of hardships and adverse conditions as before.

 

Climate data for Tabriz

Climate data for Tabriz

Shopping

Shopping centers are mostly located in city center, including Grand Bazaar of Tabriz, pedestrian malls on Tarbiyat street, Shahnaz street and Ferdowsi street. Also, there are some malls and a lot of elegant & luxurious boutiques of jewelry, rugs, clothes, handcrafts, confectionery and nuts, home appliances and so on in Abressan intersection, Roshdiyeh  and  Valiasr districts, the most famous of which is Laleh Park shopping center .

Tabriz Bazaar
The magnificent, labyrinthine covered bazaar covers some 7 sq km with 24 separate caravanserais and 22 impressive timchehs (domed halls). Construction began over a millennium ago, though much of the fine brick vaulting is 15th century. It is a Unesco World Heritage Site. There are several carpet sections, according to knot-size and type. The spice bazaar has a few shops still selling herbal remedies and natural perfumes. A couple of hat shops (Bazaar Kolahdozan) sell traditional papakh (Azari hats, from US$12) made of tight-curled astrakhan wool. Other quarters specialise in gold, shoes and general household goods.

The magnificent, labyrinthine covered bazaar covers some 7 sq km with 24 separate caravanserais and 22 impressive timchehs (domed halls). Construction began over a millennium ago, though much of the fine brick vaulting is 15th century.

For such a huge construction, the bazaar is surprisingly easy to miss. A useful entrance is the second narrow passage east of the tourist information office. This takes you into the jewellery section

Laleh Park shopping center
Laleh Park shopping center

Likewise, there are seasonal/occasional shopping fairs opened mainly in Tabriz International Exhibition Center too.
Tabriz International Exhibition Center

Tabriz International Exhibition Center which is located in eastern part of the city holds tens of exhibition based on yearly schedule. The most famous fair is TEXPO which is a general trade fair and established on 1992 and normally holds on August 4–9 every year.

 

 

Tabriz Panorama Photo

Blue Mosque
Tabriz Hotel Pars El Goli Elgoli Tabriz Hotel
Entrance of Amir Tymcheh
Tabriz Carpet Bazaar
Bazaar Tabriz Aga Khan Award For Architec
Qajar Museum (Amir Nezam House)

 

Tabriz Photo Gallery

 Sights in Tabriz
Tabriz Bazaar
Kabud (Blue) Mosque
Azarbayjan Museum
Arg-e Tabriz
Poets’ Mausoleum
Constitution House
Edifice
Qajar Museum
Museum of Measurement

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Spring in the unique nature of Ardabil

Spring in the unique nature of Ardabil

Ardabil province has an area of 17,881 square kilometers located in northeast of Iran and to the west of the Caspian Sea. The historical and rather religious city of Ardabil is it’s capital. The most important cities in this province are Khalkhall, Meshkin Shahr, Germi, Bilehsavar and Pars Abad. In 1995, the population of Ardabil province was estimated to be 1.2 million among which 48.7% were settled in urban areas and 51.1% in rural areas, out of which a small part were registered as nomad tribes.
Ardabil Map

Ardabil province has a common border of 285.5 km. with the Republic of Azarbayjan with two custom houses of Aslandooz and Bilehsavar in Moqan. The Aras and Balha Rivers occupy about 159 km. of this common border. The Nearest access of the province to central Iran is the Ardabil – Astara Road. One of the highest mountains of Iran named Sabalan is located in the Ardabil province. The summit of Sabalan, placed in northwest of the province, is 4,811 m. high.
Climate, Ardabil Province

Most of the Ardabil province is mountainous with an average altitude of 3,000 m. above sea level. The province enjoys geographical and environmental diversity. As a result of which the climate is very cold in winter and mild in summers. Indeed, the city of Ardabil is usually recorded as one of the coldest cities of the country in winters.
History and Culture, Ardabil Province

The history of this province is intertwined with the history of Azarbayjan in general. Some historians estimate the antiquity of Ardabil town back to the 5th century AD, that is the Firuz Sassanide era. In other words, this city is as old as 1500 years. But even earlier, Ardabil was a very important city from the military and political point of view during the Achaemenian period. It was a military base on the northern border of the Persian Empire. As it has been mentioned in the holy book Avesta, Zoroaster, the Iranian Prophet, was born by the river “Daei Yeta” which is now called “Aras” and wrote his holy book in the Sabalan Mountains and came to Ardabil for propagation of his religion.  In the time of the Arab invasion to Iran (about 1400 years ago), Ardabil was the largest city in Azarbayjan.
Up to the time of the Mongol attack, it was the center of government in Azarbayjan. Shah Esmail started his effort for a national government and land integrity of Iran from Ardabil and consequently he announced Tabriz as the capital city of Iran in 906 AH. In the Safavid period, Ardabil was the most important city of Iran both politically and economically. The city of Ardabil located on the trade crossroads between Europe and the East, played a critical role in the safety of the Silk Road.
The province is still strategically important with respect to tourism and trade. The city of Ardabil now is one of the most important cities of the province and Iran for its many historical monuments, specially the Safavid family’s mausoleums and tombs, its location near many thermal springs with therapeutic virtues, and location on the main access road to the Republic of Azarbayjan. These have turned the city to a tourism center, which is visited by thousands of tourists every year.

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Isfahan: Iran’s Hidden Jewel

Isfahan: Iran’s Hidden Jewel

 By Andrew Lawler, Smithsonian Magazine:the courtyard is coated in a fine brown dust, the surrounding walls are crumbling and the flaking plaster is the same monotonous khaki color as the ground. This decrepit house in a decaying maze of narrow alleys in Isfahan, Iran, betrays little of the old capital’s glory days in the 17th century. Suddenly, a paint-splattered worker picking at a nearby wall shouts, waves his steel trowel and points. Underneath a coarse layer of straw and mud, a faded but distinct array of blue, green and yellow abstract patterns emerges—a hint of the dazzling shapes and colors that once made this courtyard dance in the shimmering sun.
Isfahan holds Polo match on Nowrouz
I crowd up to the wall with Hamid Mazaheri and Mehrdad Moslemzadeh, the two Iranian artist-entrepreneurs who are restoring this private residence to its former splendor. When these mosaics were still vibrant, Isfahan was larger than London, more cosmopolitan than Paris, and grander, by some accounts, than even storied Istanbul. Elegant bridges crossed its modest river, lavishly outfitted polo players dashed across the world’s largest square and hundreds of domes and minarets punctuated the skyline. Europeans, Turks, Indians and Chinese flocked to the glittering Persian court, the center of a vast empire stretching from the Euphrates River in what is today Iraq to the Oxus River in Afghanistan. In the 17th century, the city’s wealth and grandeur inspired the rhyming proverb, Isfahan nesf-e jahan, or “Isfahan is half the world.”
Historical Bridges Isfahan - Iran
After a brutal siege shattered that golden age in the early 18th century, new rulers eventually moved the capital to Tehran, leaving Isfahan to languish as a provincial backwater, which not incidentally left many of the old city’s monuments intact. “One could explore for months without coming to an end of them,” marveled British traveler Robert Byron on his 1933-34 journey across Asia. That artistry, he wrote in The Road to Oxiana, “ranks Isfahan among those rarer places, like Athens or Rome, which are the common refreshment of humanity.”

Today, however, the city is mainly known abroad as the site of Iran’s premier nuclear research facility. What once was a sleepy town has emerged as the country’s third largest metropolis, surrounded by expanding suburbs, belching factories and the choking traffic of more than three million people. Nothing symbolizes Iran’s disconcerting modernity more than its launch, in February, of a satellite named Omid (Hope). In Isfahan, however, hope is a commodity in sharp decline. The elegant urban landscape that survived invasions by Afghan tribesmen and Mongol raiders is now threatened by negligence and reckless urban development.
Holy-Savior-Cathedral-Isfahan-Iran
Mazaheri and Moslemzadeh are members of a new generation of Isfahanis who want to restore not just buildings but their city’s reputation as a Persian Florence, one they hope will one day enthrall Westerners with its wonders once again. Inside the cool and dark interior of the house that is their current focus, the freshly painted white stucco ceiling bristles with scalloped stalactites. Delicate gilded roses frame wall paintings of idyllic gardens. (Paradise is a Persian word meaning “walled garden.”) Above a central fireplace, hundreds of inset mirrors reflect light from the courtyard. “I love this profession,” says Safouva Saljoughi, a young, chador-clad art student who is dabbing at a faded painting of flowers in one corner of the room. “I have a special relationship with these places.”

South Africa’s President Zuma Visits Isfahan
The house may have been built in the 17th century by a wealthy merchant or prosperous government official, then remodeled to suit changing tastes over the next two centuries. Even the fireplace damper is shaped in the delicate figure of a peacock. “Ornament and function together,” says Mazaheri in halting English. Located just a short walk from the medieval Friday Mosque, the house is of classic Iranian design—a central courtyard surrounded by rooms on two sides, a single entrance on the third and a grand two-story reception room with large windows on the fourth.

Rocket attacks during the war with Saddam Hussein’s Iraq in the early 1980s emptied this old neighborhood, and the house was badly vandalized. As Moslemzadeh guides Saljoughi’s careful restoration effort, Mazaheri nods toward gaping holes in the reception room, which once held oak-framed stained glass that bathed the interior in a rainbow of vivid colors. “There are still a few masters left in Isfahan who can rebuild such windows,” he says. Just repairing the elaborate stucco ceiling took five professionals on scaffolding more than a year.

Trained as a specialist in conservation techniques, the lean and energetic Mazaheri, 38, says he has built a restoration business that tackles anything from old ruins to 17th-century wall paintings. Together with his colleague Moslemzadeh, who is 43 and studied art conservation in St. Petersburg, Russia, they are investing their time and profits to convert this wreck of a home into a teahouse where visitors can appreciate traditional Isfahani crafts, music and art. Like many Isfahanis I meet, they are welcoming to foreigners, refreshingly open and immensely proud of their heritage. Without a trace of irony or discouragement, Mazaheri looks around the half-finished reception room and says, “It may take five more years to finish fixing this place up.”


Isfahan’s history is an epic cycle of fabulous boom and calamitous bust. Here a road traveling across the Iranian plateau east to the Mesopotamian plain meets a path connecting the Caspian Sea to the north with the Persian Gulf to the south. That geography linked the city’s fate to the merchants, pilgrims and armies who passed through. Blessed with a pleasant climate—the city lies at nearly the same altitude as Denver and has relatively mild summers—Isfahan evolved into a bustling township at ancient Persia’s crossroads.
Tea-House-Isfahan-Iran
A taxi driver, thumbing intently through his Persian-English dictionary as he swerves through dense traffic, offers to sell me a gold statue he claims is 5,000 years old. I would be surprised if it were authentic—not least because such ancient artifacts remain elusive, making it difficult to pinpoint the precise era when Isfahan emerged as an urban center. What little has been found of the city’s distant past I see in the basement of the cultural heritage office, an immaculately restored 19th-century villa just down the street from Mazaheri and Moslemzadeh’s project. A few boxes of stone tools sit on a tile floor, and a couple of dozen pieces of pottery—one incised with a writhing snake—lie on a plastic table. A few miles outside town, on top of an imposing hill, sit the unexcavated ruins of a temple, which may have been built during the Sassanian Empire that dominated the region until the Arab conquest in the 7th century A.D. Within the city itself, Italian archaeologists digging below the Friday Mosque just before the 1979 Islamic Revolution found Sassanian-style columns, hinting that the site originally might have been a Zoroastrian fire temple.

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Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

By : The lifting of sanctions on Iran as a result of its nuclear deal with world powers could result in a huge tourism boom. Iran made it on to the top destination lists of major publications such as The Financial Times and The Guardian in 2015 thanks to sights that include 2,500-year-old ruins at Persepolis near Shiraz and 16th-century Islamic architectural gems in Isfahan.

The World Travel Market 2015 Industry Report said Iran was set to become a tourism hotspot. Adventurous tourists are already rushing to discover the riches the country has to offer, including ancient ruins, pristine beaches and popular ski resorts. In this gallery, IBTimes UK presents 30 photos of beautiful sights that should be on every itinerary.

 

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The ancient city of Isfahan, the former Persian capital from 1598 to 1722, is considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world – and is Iran’s number-one tourist destination. Leafy streets, hand-painted tiling and the famous Islamic architecture are unparalleled by any other Iranian city, centred around the magnificent Unesco-listed Naghsh-e Jahan Square. One of the world’s largest city squares, it is home to several magnificent monuments, the Shah Mosque, the Lotfollah Mosque, the Ali Qapu Palace and the Imperial Bazaar/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, built in the early 1600s, was the first of four monuments that dominate Isfahan’s huge Naqsh-e-Jahan Square. The marble mosque is decorated throughout with exquisite tiles and calligraphy/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The Shah Mosque or Imam Mosque, a Unesco World Heritage site on Naghsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan, is regarded as one of the masterpieces of Persian Architecture, with stunning mosaics and calligraphic inscriptions/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The highly ornamented Ali Qapu Palace is located on Naqsh e Jahan Square, opposite the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque in Isfahan/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The Bazaar of Isfahan, a vaulted two-kilometre street linking the old city with the new, is one of the oldest and largest markets in the Middle East/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Isfahan’s Allāhverdi Khan Bridge, more popularly known as Si-o-seh pol, has two rows of 33 arches over the Zayandeh River/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Vank Cathedral, also known as Holy Saviour Cathedral, is an Armenian Apostolic church built in the early 1600s in Isfahan/ iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

In the 17th century, Isfahan was home to around 3,000 magnificent towers built to house pigeons. About 300 remain scattered throughout the countryside around the city/ iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Abyaneh is one of the oldest villages in Iran. Located at 2,500m above sea level in Isfahan province, the village is a jumble of houses packed one on top the other on the slopes of Mount Karkas. The walls of the houses are made of mud bricks that contain a lot of iron oxides, giving them a reddish colour/ iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Dizin, established in 1969, is the most popular ski resort in Iran. The ski season here runs from December to May – longer than European resorts because of its high altitude (3,600m, making it one of the 40 highest ski resorts in the world)iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Darbandsar, 60km to the north-east of Tehran, is one of the newest ski resorts in Iran. It offers a variety of winter sports such as snowboarding, mountain climbing, cross-country and off-piste skiing, etc/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Founded by Darius I in 518 BC, Persepolis was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire and is situated around 70km north-east of the city of Shiraz/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The tomb of Cyrus the Great, in the Pasargadae World Heritage Site, is believed to date back to the 4th century BC/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Narenjestan-e Qavam, the Qavam Orange Grove, is a 19th-century garden in Shiraz. It leads to the elegant Qavam House, decorated in a style inspired by Victorian era Europe/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The Nasir ol Molk Mosque in Shiraz is also known as the Pink Mosque, thanks to colour of the tiles used to decorate the interior. It looks particularly beautiful with light streaming through its coloured glass windows/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Tehran lacks the beautiful architecture of Isfahan and the history of Persepolis, but makes up for it with its range of restaurants, cafés, museums and art galleries – and its location at the foothills of the Alborz mountains make for fantastic walking trails/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Golestan Palace is a Unesco world heritage site in Tehran, and part of a former royal complex that includes palaces and museums, decorated with intricately carved marble and mirrored halls/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Milad Tower, also known as the Tehran Tower, is the sixth tallest tower in the world. Standing at 435m (1,427ft) high, the top floors are home to observation deck and a revolving restaurant/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Mount Damāvand is the highest peak in Iran and the Middle East. This potentially active volcano is located in the Alborz range, near the southern coast of the Caspian Sea, about 60km north-east of Tehran/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Meymand, an ancient village in Kerman Province, is thought to date back 12,000 years ago. More than 600 people still live in around 350 hand-dug rock houses/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Kandovan is a village in East Azerbaijan Province containing cliff dwellings excavated inside volcanic rocks similar to those in the Turkish region of Cappadocia. These rock houses are still occupied today – at the 2006 census, the village had a population of around 600/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Yazd, a city of around a million people and the driest city in Iran, is architecturally unique and an important pilgrimage destination for Zoroastrians/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The Amir Chakhmaq Complex is the largest structure in Iran. It is illuminated with orange light in the evenings and provides wonderful views over the city of Yazd/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The city of Bam in Kerman Province surrounds an ancient citadel dating back around 2,000 years, to the Parthian Empire (248 BC–224 AD)/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Qom, a city of around a million people about 125km south-west of Tehran, is considered holy by Shia Islam and is a popular pilgrimage destination/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The Zagros Mountains, regarded as sacred by the Kurds, run along Iran’s western border. The highest point on the range is Zard Kuh, at 4548m (14,921 ft)/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

Anzali Lagoon in the Caspian Sea in the northern Iranian province of Gilan is a good place for birdwatching, despite increasing pollution thanks to being used for many years as waste dumping site/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The port city of Bandar Abbas is capital of Hormozgān Province on the southern coast of Iran, on the Persian Gulf. Thousands of tourists visit the city and the nearby islands, including Qeshm and Hormuz/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The Bazaar of Tabriz, another Unesco World Heritage Site, is thought to be the largest covered bazaar in the world. Situated on the ancient Silk Road, the bazaar has separate sections for jewellery, carpets, leather goods, etc/iStock

Iran tourism: 30 beautiful surprises waiting to be discovered by adventurous travellers

The Golden Eagle Danube Express is a luxury train that takes two weeks to wind through the 7,000km journey from Budapest to Iran, via the Balkans, the Bosphorus and eastern TurkeyBernadett Szabo/Reuters

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The New York Times: Sanctions Lifted, American Tourists Head to Iran

The New York Times: Sanctions Lifted, American Tourists Head to Iran

The New York Times, By Tourism in Iran is already popular with Europeans. Iranian officials told The Associated Press last fall that about five million foreign travelers visited Iran in 2014, and that the country aims to attract 20 million tourists, spending $30 billion, by 2025.

Among growth signs, Air France recently announced that it plans to start three flights weekly between Paris and Tehran beginning in April. Already Iran is a one-stop destination from New York via Istanbul, Dubai or Doha on Turkish Airlines, Emirates or Qatar Airways.

American Tourists Head to IranIran hosts some of the world’s oldest cultural monuments, including 19 Unesco World Heritage Sites, and its varied terrain ranges from desert locales to ski resorts.

“It’s just extraordinarily beautiful, and the sites are as magnificent as any you can find in the world,” said William O. Beeman, a professor and chairman of the anthropology department at the University of Minnesota and an expert in Iran. “Isfahan is comparable to Machu Picchu or Angkor Wat. These are major centers of civilization that have been lovingly restored.”

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